The Garden Column: All About Water
Monday, November 10, 2008
By Juergen Jaenicke, MG
(Courtesy Cornell Cooperative Extension)
First of all, I apologize for not having an October column. The month of September was so busy, that the time just flew by and I didn’t get to write one)
Fall is for Planting Trees and Shrubs
During the late summer and fall, the growrh of new foilage from this year has begun to harden off. With the top demanding less of the plants total resources, more nutrients are available to go into root development. At this time, the ground is cooling instead of heating up, which benefits root growth. This continues until soil temperatores approach freezing, long after the top growth has become dormant.
One thing to always remember when planting trees and shrubs is proper depth. Plants usually die when planted too deep. Always dig the hole the proper size. It should be as wide and one and a half times as deep as the ball. Use a sufficient amount of properly prepared backfill. Add enough of theis mixture in the bottom of the planting hole so the top of the root ball is at, or one-half inch higher than the surrounding soil. The backfill mixture should be lightly firmed before placing the plant into the hole. This prevents settling in the future.
Water thoroughly and keep soil surrounding root ball from drying out till ground freezes. Mulch newly planted trees and shrubs with organic matter, such as pine needles.
Water Your Plants Now
Some landscape plants are showing the wilting, rolling and premature shedding and discoloration of leaves now. Plants must be watered properly to compensate for the lack of rainfall during this year’s growing season. All plants, through transpiration, are always giving off water and this has to be replaced. Water is needed by the plant for its growth process, to transmit nutrients and in photosynthesis.
The key to watering is thorough and slow penetration. For plants, water slowly for several hours. Trees and shrubs require deeper penetration and a root feeder or similar type of tool is the best answer. For most plants, five or six inches of soil should be kept wet, but trees and shrubs with their deeper roots ned a greter depth of water than this.
Shallow-rooted plants like azaleas and rhododendrons should never be allowed to dry out. In late fall (November) water the ground heavily to help prevent drying in the winter. Mulch should be applied before the ground freezes.
Many other symtoms result from prolonged lack of water, such as leaf scorch and premature discoloration of leaves. There is also internal damage which will manifest itself next spring, if the plants are not properly watered now.
KEEP YOUR PLANTS WELL WATERED TILL GROUND FREEZES.
(Courtesy Cornell Cooperative Extension)
First of all, I apologize for not having an October column. The month of September was so busy, that the time just flew by and I didn’t get to write one)
Fall is for Planting Trees and Shrubs
During the late summer and fall, the growrh of new foilage from this year has begun to harden off. With the top demanding less of the plants total resources, more nutrients are available to go into root development. At this time, the ground is cooling instead of heating up, which benefits root growth. This continues until soil temperatores approach freezing, long after the top growth has become dormant.
One thing to always remember when planting trees and shrubs is proper depth. Plants usually die when planted too deep. Always dig the hole the proper size. It should be as wide and one and a half times as deep as the ball. Use a sufficient amount of properly prepared backfill. Add enough of theis mixture in the bottom of the planting hole so the top of the root ball is at, or one-half inch higher than the surrounding soil. The backfill mixture should be lightly firmed before placing the plant into the hole. This prevents settling in the future.
Water thoroughly and keep soil surrounding root ball from drying out till ground freezes. Mulch newly planted trees and shrubs with organic matter, such as pine needles.
Water Your Plants Now
Some landscape plants are showing the wilting, rolling and premature shedding and discoloration of leaves now. Plants must be watered properly to compensate for the lack of rainfall during this year’s growing season. All plants, through transpiration, are always giving off water and this has to be replaced. Water is needed by the plant for its growth process, to transmit nutrients and in photosynthesis.
The key to watering is thorough and slow penetration. For plants, water slowly for several hours. Trees and shrubs require deeper penetration and a root feeder or similar type of tool is the best answer. For most plants, five or six inches of soil should be kept wet, but trees and shrubs with their deeper roots ned a greter depth of water than this.
Shallow-rooted plants like azaleas and rhododendrons should never be allowed to dry out. In late fall (November) water the ground heavily to help prevent drying in the winter. Mulch should be applied before the ground freezes.
Many other symtoms result from prolonged lack of water, such as leaf scorch and premature discoloration of leaves. There is also internal damage which will manifest itself next spring, if the plants are not properly watered now.
KEEP YOUR PLANTS WELL WATERED TILL GROUND FREEZES.